“Nevertheless, we eventually got underway, loaded up Salomon’s boat and headed north into the Arctic Circle, weaving our way through the Ammassalik Fjord and east through a labyrinth of smaller fjords and channels set amongst sweeping walls of rock and jumbled glaciers that slithered erratic paths through untrammeled peaks. Patches of sea mist hung in the still air, and occasionally we heard the groaning and fracture of icebergs over the puttering diesel engine. After 10 hours, we pulled into the Kangertittivatsiaq fjord and caught our first glimpse of the cirque.”